Wooden threaded handscrews Part 3

This video is about stock preparation using various hand planes for specific tasks. While it is the no.4 smoother is versatile but the 5 and 5 1/2 is the most versatile of them all but as your experience grows you begin develop a sense of understanding what plane is better suit to each task and what bevel angle is better suited to tackle reversing grain.  So owning the most planes is not the goal here while we all appreciate hand tools and love them to bits and I’m sure  none of us would reject owning an array of tools you most definitely don’t need them all.  For the sake of speed production owning a few extra smoothers is not a bad idea, when one blade goes blunt you just grab another plane and your back to work.

I hope you gain some level of insight into this procedure as it is a normal integral part of woodworking with hand tools.

 

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6 thoughts on “Wooden threaded handscrews Part 3

  1. Spent the afternoon doing just this very exercise. I have to agree with your thoughts on the No.5. My old Stanley No.5 is my go-to plane for initial sizing and thicknessing. I reserve the No.4 for final pass work or small pieces where the No.5 is awkward.
    Having an assortment of planes, like you have, is very handy and quite efficient. When limited to one or two planes, I think most beginners forget that there are more adjustments on a plane other than depth. If I hit a particularly difficult piece, I’ll adjust the cap iron set back and/or mouth opening to get the best results possible.

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  2. That’s right setting the cap iron back should result in easier planing it’s interesting to note that Richard Maguire did a lengthy discussion on this. When I saw him pushing the plane with one hand I tried to replicate this action and the plane skipped, so I was baffled and thought what did he do different to me. Later I saw his blog on this and he claims if you pull the cap iron back 1/8″ the plane will pull itself down into the work which reminded me of a video I saw Paul do but I don’t remember if he actually mentioned this. By having the cap iron set 1/32 or even 64th close to the edge naturally you will get a tearout free shavings but now the opposite occurs where the plane doesn’t pull itself down into the work but you have to press down which will cause friction and eventually tire you out, which in my case my back pain threshold hits 10/10. I think it is very handy to own several planes setup for different operations and since that can be a very expensive venture it may not be a viable option for everyone.

    However I have also a preference to wooden planes over metal ones, my no.7 wooden one is a pleasure to use and hogs off more material getting the job done faster than my metal one will. It’s also lighter which I find beneficial making it easier to push and being wood glides over the work alot easier never requiring me to wax the sole. The downside to my wooden one is the handle size, it’s not the right size for my hand causing me blisters. Other than that they are great. I’m going to one of these days make myself some wooden planes, I’m by no means an expert in these things but I will give it a go on some scrap first just to get the hang of it before I actually make a proper one. I’m also going to make myself an array of moulding planes which I’m looking forward to that the most as I do want to get rid of that router table even though it doesn’t get used much at all as I have some dedicated moulding planes I use frequently but there are a few ovolo’s that I don’t have and have no choice but to resort to using the router. I really would like to be completely machine free in the way of machinery I actually don’t have much at all. Bandsaw, scrollsaw and pedestal drill they are my main ones I wouldn’t sell. The pedestal drill doesn’t get used much at all except for one clock face which I find indispensable and is the only reason why it’s still in the shop if I could work out an easier way to do what I do that drill would be gone in a heartbeat. The disc sander is great on that odd occasion so that would stay as well, the lathe is a definite must so all that’s left is the belt sander which just uses up precious floor space and the router table.

    There you go from hand planes to me whining about unused machinery taking up my precious floor space. lol

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  3. This weekend I cheated. I made something out off pre milled wood that I bought. A first to me. I’ll send pictures later 🙂
    Man its so different. Its the firs time I don’t milled my wood.
    I have a 36mm wooden scrub fixed by me and a “Frankenstein” Record #4 my wife brought to me last time she went to England.
    The chip breaker, the lateral adjustment, the pressure in the front, on the back, laterally pressure, radius on the blade… there’s a lot to learn and mostly “feel” really feel and “listen” to the feedback.
    Its always a bit different.
    My next buy will be a jack plane…

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  4. I wouldn’t call it cheating it just saves you only a tad bit of time, what people don’t realise is that rough sawn isn’t really all that much work and the savings dollar wise are good but ant don’t feel like your cheating because your not. I’l tell you what I did last night that made my stomach churn today. i sat up working “paper work” till 3am then I couldn’t fall asleep till well after 4. I woke up at 7 and couldn’t do a single thing all day. A complete waste of a day and I feel like a bag of potatoes. All that work I could of done I didn’t do, so my own poor organisational skills robbed me of an entire day’s work. That’s cheating.

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  5. Hi,
    I recognized during watching the video that my reading is not fast enough.
    The text boards with even more text on it disappear a wee bit too quick.
    I’m using the #5 for quick stock removal and the #5 low angel for more precise work because I find it’s better to adjust.
    I still try to find my favorite for smoothing. Actually it is a small bevel up plane. I think I have to try a wooden coffin smoother. It’s on the never ending build list already.
    Cheers,
    Stefan

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