I see innumerable recordings on YouTube innocently giving out the wrong information on the ratio mix of water to granules. Why are there so many mislead? My own particular musings to this is were all gaining from each other. In the event that one source puts out deluding data, at that point it spreads like an infection tainting thousands consistently. My issue with some YouTube recordings is the mundane, relentless, unconcerned, easygoing, detached demeanor they take towards the art.
For this situation I will just allude to shroud stick. You hear words like “oh I don’t measure how much water I use, I just pour it in and cover the surface.” That’s not by any stretch of the imagination how it goes and the reason they say this, is they don’t realize what is the right proportion blend.
On the off chance that you’ve perused my magazines you will see antiquated articles revealing to you the right proportion blend is 1:1. It doesn’t state what looks great to the eye. They additionally don’t take this nonchalant disposition towards the art where I’ve heard some say on the off chance that if it looks square then it must be square. I believe this attitude is just an exterior facade to influence the viewer into believing or at least make it appear that hand tools are a no fuss operation. Rip it and tidy up the edge with a couple of swipes of your plane and Bob’s you uncle. This is implausible, unrealistic woodworking.
Today is my roster day off so I don’t want to spend too much time on this as I’m under the gun to go back to the build for the third issue. So I’ll simply demonstrate to you a progression of photograph’s and afterward you’ll realise what the right proportion blend resembles.
Lo-and-behold I didn’t take a photo of it mixed! Unbelievable. I’ll try to describe it to you, but if you mix 1:1 you’ll see what it looks like. The water level should just cover the surface of the granules. Not flood it or drown it but just cover it.
What’s additionally imperative is the nature of the granules and I’m referring to its quality. I purchase mine from Patrick Edwards; he gets it from Milligan and Higgins. I don’t know Behlen items whether they utilize Milligans and Higgins and simply slap their own particular mark on it or on the off chance that they make their own. In any case, Milligans and Higgins is a trusted and experience organisation and if it’s sufficient for Patrick an incredible Marqueter with 40+ years of knowledge and experience at that point it’s adequate for me.
If I’ve offended someone in this post then toughen up.
Journeyman's Journal 
1:1 always seems to work for me. I have to admit though…after a few times mixing, I no longer measure. I simply add water until the coverage looks the same as when I do measure it out. I’m only able to do that though because I learned what the proper ratio looks like.
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Yes and that’s fine, but there are those who don’t know and just parrot others who also don’t know and that’s the part that bugs me. I think they call it “dogma”
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So the correct mix is? I read/see 3 possible options giving 2 mixes
1:1 by weight (as only liquids are done by volume)
1:1 by volume (more or less 2:3 by weight),
covering (more or less 1:1 by weight).
But it probably depends as only Milligan & Miller is covered here.
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Why complicate it, it is not rocket science. The pictures clearly show the mix and it’s Milligans and Higgins I guess you made a typo error nonethless the maker has nothing to do with ratio of the mix.
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The picture shows ground glue I think, I have pearl glue from Liberon with a different density, but probably not a reason for concern.
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Pearl glue is fine just unnecessarily expensive. Let me guess you got it from Carba tec.
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Not sure production form is so important, Veritas asks the same price for pearls and granular, where origin is mostly more important, bone glue being cheaper than hide glue.
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Yes bone glue is cheaper but it is also the lowest quality type as well. Remember you get what you pay for, but when it comes to Carba tec most times it’s cheaper else where.
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Remember you’re still going to add water to thin it once it’s once it turns fluid in the pot. Adding the right amount of water to make it gel quickens the gelling process which is about 15 mins. Others claim it take 40mins and some say it’s best to leave it overnight. I think they wait so long because they add too much water.
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By the way… does any of the readers know some equivalent brand of granulated hide glue in Europe?
Because the import taxes from US are a deal breaker to me 😦
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I think they use Behlen. It is widely used and I haven’t heard anything bad about it other than that you could try pearl glue. You can find that in any woodworking store but it is expensive which is odd for a lower grade glue.
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“Behlen” as in Behlen Ground Hide Glue?
Thanks but I still couldn’t find it in a European store.
And I found a few but with the what’s lost in translation I still don’t know any equivalent product to these granulates.
😦
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How can that be Antonio, Behlen is a German company in Germany and Germany is in Europe.
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Its a mater in witch I’m just ignorant and starting from scratch.
I found it in several countries and in Portugal as well but NOT the right equivalent as ‘granulate hide glue’ 192 gram strength. I found glue out of nerves, bones, skin from horse, cow, rabbit, salmon you name it. And I only know a bit of english, spanish, italian and french, no german (yet)
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192 gram strength gives a little longer open time but 250 was the one they normally used. If you read all my posts on the stuff you will see that horse and cow is the stuff it’s made from. Don’t use bone it’s poor quality. Better yet just stick with what you’ve been using all along, I’m sure this stuff is overly expensive in Europe.
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I don’t use a 1:1 ration when I make glue. I asked my luthier who makes it for instruments and does furniture repairs how he makes it. I use his plan which is a high gram strength (315) and significantly more water. Its probably 2:1 water to glue. He has been using it for years. I am tempted to try a 1:1 ratio with a lower gram strength for experimentation.
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In Spain there is at least one producer:
http://www.moreu.com/productos_colconejo_ing.html
I don’t know if they sell in small quantities but then they might have local dealers.
It seems nowadays hide glue (and fish glue and bone glue) is used more by painters and gilders then by woodworkers.
So look for artist shops (although it might be more expensive).
Sylvain
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Very disappointing. If you don’t speak in real measure (mass) then this is all no better than the videos you deride.
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It is 1:1 what more do you need to know. What’s wrong with the videos?
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Hi, so I just found this site… The only instructions I had was to soak in adequate cold water. I think I used too much water. Is there something I can do to save my glue or do I just need to start over. I have about 5 time the water I need for a 1:1 ratio.
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I’m sorry I just erased my previous posts as I made an error. It doesn’t matter if you added more water because you can add more granules to compensate
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Hi All !
I am interested to use a hyde glue that comes already liquid and does not need heating to use. I found an option from the brand TITEBOND. ,,, still have to experiment and find a gallon presentation.
I´m looking for this option because I don´t want to smell vapors from heating animal glue … , and also to avoid cooking time … ,
my concern is budget and open time to work.
Does anybody know of an alternative like I´m describing ?
Thanks!
Ernesto.
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Hello Ernesto, unfortunately there is no other glue available on the market that your describing. Titebond liquid hide glue is a hit and miss.
I have had glue failure twice with them and I’m sure others have had the same but have made no mention of it publicly. When their glue works they work perfectly, but when they fail they fail miserably. Milligan and Higgins glue does have an odour as they place a repellent in them.
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