The homemade match of liquid hide was a success after all.
This time I did a rubbed joint and left the glue to draw the wood onto each other, another words I let the glue do the clamping. I let it sit for 12 hours. The glue on the surface was gummy as it should be. It’s a good practice to allow 24hours to cure, but I wanted to see the effectiveness of the homemade batch after 12 hours. The results were the glue won. It held up its end of the bargain doing its job perfectly. As you can see in the picture above the glue line is intact.
Some points to note before I wither away into my shop.
- Hot Hide will dry hard relatively quickly on the surface, that has been my personal experience.
- Liquid Hide will remain gummy on the surface for longer than 24hrs because of the urea, but will cure in the joint.
- You can perform a rubbed joint with HH
- You cannot perform a rubbed joint with LH (the pieces I used were very thin and even then I couldn’t do a proper rubbed joint)
- You can glue an edge joint with HH straight off the plane
- You cannot glue an edge joint with LH straight off the plane, the edge surface must be roughed up with some course grit paper.
I guess the last part is the most important bit of information about LH. The first test I did was a failure as it broke on the glue line without much effort. The reason being the surface was smooth off the plane. I knew this would happen, but I thought maybe a home batch version would react differently and it didn’t. I did write about this in Issue III.
The second test I roughed the edge with some 80 grit sandpaper, 120grit would work as well. Obviously it was a success.
As you can see there are notable differences between Liquid Hide and Hot Hide. It would be better to use Hot hide over Liquid hide, but it’s also comforting to know that if you need that extra open time LH will do the job equally well.