Planing to thickness

I recently purchased a 48″ X 4″ 3 1/2 ppi saw and from Blackburn tools. It only came a few days ago, and I had my own small back order to full fill before I started on building the frame. I’m building a temporary frame out of structural pine as I’m eager to start using the saw. Yesterday I sold my bandsaw so this saw will be my replacement. The bandsaw took a large foot space in my shop and I hated walking around it. I know for harder timbers it came in handy, but once I use up that harder wood I won’t be buying it again. The trick with hand tools is that you need to use hand tool friendly wood. Everything including ripping and resawing becomes easy or lets, just say more enjoyable. You still get a workout but it feels great.

The handle on Isaac’s template requires it to be 1 5/8″ thick, since I laminated two boards mine is just under two inches thick, I need to remove 1/4″. I could resaw it or plane it and I think planing it would be less taxing on the body plus a lot faster. To do so in a timely manner, you need a scrub plane.

Stanley No.5

This is one I recently over paid on the internet because the douchebag intentionally ripped me off. It’s a dog of a plane and it took a lot of work just to get it in this state. I paid $50 + for postage. In addition, I had to buy a new blade for $38.50 and the screw that was in the tote was undersized and made to appear to fit, they want $18.50 on eBay for a small screw plus postage. The underside of the plane requires more work to be flat. For a scrub plane that isn’t a requirement. You’re not looking to make the board flat, but rather to remove or hog off a lot of material fast. To do this, you need to shape the iron like below.

You could even go steeper on harder materials to give you less muscle fatigue. I now have 3 scrub planes. A Stanley No.5 and No.4 and a Veritas scrub plane. I never did like using the Veritas on the face of boards due to the plane’s width being so narrow. So, I use it on the edge if it’s within reach, but mainly I’ll stick to the two Stanley’s. Something you should never do is waste money on a quality plane to convert it to a scrub plane unless you want to use two irons on it, one for scrubbing and the other for smoothing. The beauty of the Stanley’s is that they are very light, so you will suffer less muscle fatigue whilst in use and the other the plane irons are very thin at 3mm and therefore easy to shape and sharpen. Btw the blades don’t stay sharp as long as the A2 blades but it’s small price to pay on its ease of sharpening.

I first plane the corners down to almost the depth I scribed. Once reached, there is only a small amount of material left in the middle, as you see in the picture. This peels away quickly and easily.

Just keep working the top until you’re almost to the line.

Now I switch to my 5 1/2 or in this case I used a wooden jack for no particular reason other than I wanted too. I set finely the blade in my jack so I can work my way to depth with greater precision. After doing this a while you don’t even really think about it much and you nail it 99% of the time.

It took no longer than 5 minutes. Had I resawed it, it would have taken a lot longer.

2 thoughts on “Planing to thickness

  1. That 48″ saw is going to be a beast. Have you used such a saw before? If not, it might take a few tries (and ruin a few boards) to learn. I have the 36″ version and that’s hard enough for me to handle. Good luck with it.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. No I have never used it before, but I am lucky enough to have been given several 3 in thick pine slabs to help me build the traditional tool chest. There a lot of resawing needed to be done.

      Like

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