This is the part where I start putting the box back together again. It won’t be in order but you can clearly see the difference of before and after. Actually I’ll place the before and after shots.
Pay attention to this important detail. Remember I wasn’t born in the fifth century as some may proclaim, I learn to trial and error and this one I easily picked up on. Insert the part that I’m holding into the steel base however, make sure that the cut angle is facing towards you (sawing position).
The bolt goes through all parts as is shown
Do this on both sides. Once you’ve done that insert the two grub screw on each sides. These grub screw have a point on the end. You turn them to adjust the saw vertically to 90°. Refer to the picture below for more detail.
Make sure to thread the depth stop before screwing on the upright.
Insert the spring
The pictures are really self explanatory. The parts that aren’t I’ll do my best to clarify. The tie-bar goes through that slot above the saw guides.
An important part I forgot to mention is prior to all that you have seen, install the baseboard first just to make life installing it a little simpler. I bought new screws for this.
Make sure to chamfer the end of the board that will butt up again the fence. Also if you are going to use pointed screws that will stop your work from sliding then plane the board to thickness. I can’t remember what it was, but you can work that part out easily.
Now comes the fun part adjusting the saw to accuracy. It actually wasn’t as frustrating as Ron Herman made it out to be. Maybe I was lucky IDK.
First turn all the grub screws until they bottom out. Be gentle as soon as you feel it touched the other side stop turning. Now turn anti clockwise front side then the back and check for 90°. To get it to saw straight I loosened the bottom nut and turned the steel base. I fluked that one as well.
That is it for the adjustments. I made a base and I put a lip on it so it butts up against the edge of the workbench. However, if you prefer you can omit the lip and just use holdfasts to hold it, that too works quite well.
The vintage and antique mitre boxes and I sold one antique mitre box as I don’t need two are very accurate, robust and solidly built. The handsaws that come with them need to be sharp and properly set for it to cut straight. Everything must work in harmony with each other.
I remember when I was in my early twenties I bought myself a modern day mitre box much like the Jorgenson and boy did I hate that thing. It cut accurately, but I stood forever trying to saw through a 2×4. I haven’t used one since I’ve restored this one and what a difference it made. The cuts are fast and the box isn’t flimsy. You can clearly see that these mitre boxes were made for the journeyman.
I understand why the world has moved to cheaper alternative materials and I know Stanley didn’t have a choice; it was to stay in the US and go broke or mass produce in China and triple their profits. However, I as a consumer have a choice and I choose to buy the best I can afford, but as much as we’d like to think we can make a difference we are a minority and in this case the minority are not the loudest voice.