Dan Coffey made a stanley wooden smoother, it’s a novelty plane it can’t be used but would make a great gift for someone. Check out these pics. It’s not the best work but with a little effort you could make this to be an attractive piece.
I have finally finished all the drawings from No.18 – No.1. That’s 36 planes in total or 18 pairs. The No.18 has a radius of 1 1/2″ and so it goes down to No.1 which has a radius of 1/16″.
I have based these drawings but not entirely from Larry nor even entirely from James Celeb. These drawings were most difficult to complete, the reasons being that Larry’s dimensions are not accurate. I’ve had a friend of mine who is a doctor of engineering try to make sense of those dimensions and came to the same conclusion that they are innacurate. So I’ve had to change them to make it all work, James Celeb drawing of a single moulding plane is correct but he too had to deviate from Larry’s dimensions a little. Matt Bickford’s planes follows very closely if not identically to Larry’s planes, unfortunately those dimensions he uses are unavailable to me.
The initial base design is the same as Larry’s, Bickfords and Celeb, those base dimensions is an agreed upon consensus since the 18th century and on 18th century planes only. The issue I had was getting the blind side matching the bodies fullness while maintaining the radius profile. Believe me this was one mind boggling thing.
While I’ve stuck to the planes typical 18th century design, I’ve opted to change the finial from the typical circular to an elliptical shape with a lamb’s tongue. In the 18th century there are about 5 different designs for the wedges if I’m not mistaken and the one that appeals to me the most is Thomas Walker’s design. The elliptical shape is taken from those poxy shoes they used to wear, you know the one with the heels. To me that looks most elegant for the wedge and it’s not the same shape though but very similar to the 19th century style. The lamb’s tongue yet adds a touch of further elegance.
18th century planes are slightly longer than 19th century moulding planes, but they are in no way more functional than 19th century planes, it’s very much an aesthetic thing. To my eyes 18th century planes are a lot more pleasing in design than the 19th century style.
So here’s the thing guys and gals, I’m sure you would want to have all the working drawings for these but I won’t release them all until I have built these planes. Even though I have double and triple and quad triple checked my work, I still need to see whether or not changes could be made as an improvement. So far I’ve build one plane the No.16 based on these drawings and it works fine but I want to finish off the rest and if all goes well then I can safely offer them to you and sleep better knowing they are 100% correct.
However, I will not be offering them for free, I don’t know how much I will charge for them but it will be affordable. I’ve always had good intentions for this blog but considering how expensive this country of mine is, I’m really doing it tough. I’ve invested a considerable amount of time and knowledge to draw these up, and to offer them for free would be ludicrous. As far as I know such plans are not available anywhere on the net, I will be the first. So have a look at the sample No.15 plane, see for yourselves just how accurate and well drawn they are.
15 hollow A3 Imperial
15 round A3 Imperial
It’s been a while since I last worked on this build, I’ve had a week off work due to being sick and even though my body ached and my head throbbed it wasn’t enough to keep me out of my workshop, but enough to keep me out of my crappy, schizer of a job.
I went back to my original No.16, if you remember when I started on this build I screwed up the mouth by opening it too much. Plus Lie Nielson advertised on their site that they had the 1 1/4″ iron but it turned out to that they never did. It’s a mystery still to this day how it got on their site at all. So I bought some O1 flat bars from the states because I couldn’t find any in Australia to be at 1/8″ Of course I paid through my backside after all the conversion and shipping was done and yes I will do it again and again and again or atleast until Australia has it which will probably be never.
I’ve completed the build today but I still need to shape the iron, heat treat it, sharpen it and give it a test run. I’m basing my planes on 18th Century moulding planes, my designs are directly from Larry Williams, the same designs that Matt Bickford uses on his planes. I’ve never built a moulding plane in my life, in fact I’ve never built any plane besides the small router plane before either. So this was a huge learning curve and adventure for me. I’ve watched Larry William’s dvd on side escapements countless times and I’m still watching it over and over again. You’ll be amazed at how much information you’ve missed when you watch it several times. Your minds starts to wander and your not really concentrating but the dvd continues to play. So I just kept rewinding it and watched over and over again until I got it.
That mouth opening will bother me till the day of judgement and beyond, but I will learn to live with it because it’s actually not entirely my fault. Sure I cut it but I blame it on my ignorance at the time. Sure enough I think I pretty much nailed and once I get the iron done and she performs as I expect she will I’ll be starting on the No.15 and work my way down.
I’ll be the first to admit that it isn’t easy, it’s slow, pedantic and there was a lot of “how the hell do you work this part out.” In the end I achieved what I set out to do but I know there will be even more frustrating part as I work down to the itty little bitty ones.
If you’re going to tackle these planes I would highly recommend you practice on some structural cheap pine. A lot will end up just piling on your bench but you’ll save alot frustration and money in the long run. Also I thought this French method would be easier but now I’m of the opinion that it’s not, as it has its own quirks. Setting the Veritas Rabbet plane is difficult, insanely difficult, so planing a rabbet with it is no walk in the park. For me that was the most frustrating part and I will without a doubt build myself various sized rabbet planes. Also creating a fillet that you see on the toe and heel of the plane to look crisp and right is also difficult. Shaping the sole isn’t as hard as I thought it would be but I practiced on some scrap a couple of times to get it right. When you do decide to make a set always start off with the round and then use that to make your hollow.
I am really holding off from revealing detailed information on how to build these planes because I would like to reserve that for the magazine. Yes the magazine will be released by the end of this month. I’m only waiting for one more author to complete his article and as soon as that’s done there are over 60 pages of reading materials to go through. For now I better get back to finishing off this iron. Another new challenge, how do I shape it without having an assortment of files.
One last thing to mention, I started this build last summer. The glue I used is not surprising to anyone is OBG Liquid Hide and look at it, it’s holding together even through the hot, extremely humid months. Our summers in my state lasts for three months and they get unbearably hot, sometimes too hot to work. Hide glue has held on, so why it doesn’t work for some people bewilders me, even the fish glue I used on scrap and left it in the laundry is still holding strong I still haven’t thrown it away. So there you have it in a nutshell.
Here is part 1 of the build. Hope you like it.
This is a quick update to let you know where we’re at. The announcement of this magazine has sparked a lot of excitement amongst our craftsman worldwide, we have gained several contributing authors, among them are Brian Holcombe, Joshua Stevens aka Mr.Chickadee, Bob Rozaieski from the Logan Cabinet Shoppe, Bob has written several articles for various woodworking magazines, one of them being finewoodworking. Unfortunately Paul Sellers has declined to become a contributor at this time, but the door is always open should he reconsider time permitting.
I’m in talks with Colonial Williamsburg, they’re very positive about this magazine. I know I could do alot more had work not be in the way, but that’s how the cookie crumbles. So far there’s about 23 solid pages of great articles completed including projects.
So it’s all coming together slowly but surely, I didn’t realise just how much work goes into producing a quality magazine. Also in addition, an ePub version will become available in the near future for iPad’s. ePubs are an interactive eBook mag with video’s and so forth. So I’m hoping to have two versions, the standard PDF for those without an iPad and an ePub version for iPads. I’ll see if it’s possible to cover the android users.
Articles are being written up by our authors as we speak, mine are already done I just have a few other additions I would like to add. I’m not entirely sure just how many pages there will be in total, I’m doing this on the fly. Comparing to other magazines I’ve counted about 30 pages of advertising and about four actual pure woodworking articles. So I think I’m doing a pretty good job so far, no ads just pure woodworking.
Please help spread the word, help by contributing if you can, send your articles, projects pics, tips, ideas, discoveries, everyone is welcomed to contribute.
Send to email@example.com
This magazine is not about me but all about you, it’s for all of us combined. Articles are not reserved for the privileged, like you find with other magazines. I want the world to see craftsmen and women from all over the world, let the world see you and what you make and have to offer. This magazine again is not reserved for celebrity woodworkers, even though they are more than welcome to contribute, but I’m more interested in the unknown woodworker, the silent achiever. Not matter who you are, what part of the world you live in, you all have something valuable to offer. If language is a barrier, I will help you along as best I can. This is a community based magazine and therefore a community based effort. Let’s make this the best and most sought out hand tool woodworking magazine together.
The materials I used are American Black Walnut and solid brass for the base, I didn’t use epoxy for lamination of the brass to wood as epoxy is brittle and eventually will break away.
Instead I used loctite 330. Other materials used are Beech with brass inserts for the knobs and Camphour Laurel for the blade holder and lastly a knurled thumbscrew to lock the blade.
The iron is O1 tool steel and hardened to RC62, the primary bevel angle is 25°, the back of the blade has been flattened and the blade sharpened. This blade requires no work and is ready to use out of the box.
The sole of the plane has also been flattened.
This tool as all my woodworking is entirely handmade including the shaping of the iron and it’s preparation not even a grinder touched it.
As this is not a tool making business but just a hobby it’s a one off sale, I had surplus material and didn’t want to see it go to waste and liked it so much I thought I’d build another.
All the proceeds of this sale will go towards building myself a decent workbench.
Price is AUD $140 which includes FREE standard shipping Australia wide only.
Payment is to be made by bank transfer, paypal asks way too much in fees and my price hasn’t been adjusted to accommodate paypal’s demands.
A note to international buyers, shoot me an email handmadeuniqueclocks (at) gmail.com with your zip or postal code and I will get a shipping quote for you.
Having built this project twice you’d think it would go faster the second time round but it didn’t. Building this plane was time consuming but well worth the effort and I’ve come to appreciate tool makers and understand why they charge what they do. Even if I used all their fancy machinery I don’t believe I could of built it any faster.
Toolmakers charge accordingly because labour cost is the culprit like in any manufacturing business and if I were to include labour plus overheads, then this plane would exceed $300 easily. If you think I’m making money on this think again, I know I’ve said this before but I’ll say it again, youtube can be very misleading. No tool can be made for $10, materials don’t fall from the sky irrespective of which country you live in, the lights in your shop isn’t free, knowledge and skill cannot be downloaded and installed by watching a video. All of this plus more comes to a hefty price tag, but all of us continue to pay it because we love our craft and will continue to do so because of this love we have for our craft. So be truthful with yourselves and others and don’t follow the misguided concept of those who mislead others through youtube. You don’t have to reveal what it cost you , just don’t say it cost you $10 so you can get more subscribers, likes and hits. By doing so, you are doing a disservice to many businesses out there who are struggling to stay afloat.
Take care everyone.