Finally it’s finished, all the articles completed, edited over and over again. This was a big project for me as the moulding planes article was a toughie to write about. I needed to provide enough description without putting you to sleep and make it easy enough to follow. I think I have accomplished both and I believe you will be able to make any h&r using a simpler method than the traditional British and American approach. I have covered many aspects of the build and the reasoning behind the numbering system.
I’m sorry it took so long, but I think you will agree it was worth the wait.
As you can see I’ve also made some minor changes. Hope you like it.
As always I would like to thank Matt McGrane our magazine’s contributing editor. I would be lost without him.
Issue III release date is on Saturday 4th November 2017.
Yes, it is free
The homemade match of liquid hide was a success after all.
This time I did a rubbed joint and left the glue to draw the wood onto each other, another words I let the glue do the clamping. I let it sit for 12 hours. The glue on the surface was gummy as it should be. It’s a good practice to allow 24hours to cure, but I wanted to see the effectiveness of the homemade batch after 12 hours. The results were the glue won. It held up its end of the bargain doing its job perfectly. As you can see in the picture above the glue line is intact.
Some points to note before I wither away into my shop.
- Hot Hide will dry hard relatively quickly on the surface, that has been my personal experience.
- Liquid Hide will remain gummy on the surface for longer than 24hrs because of the urea, but will cure in the joint.
- You can perform a rubbed joint with HH
- You cannot perform a rubbed joint with LH (the pieces I used were very thin and even then I couldn’t do a proper rubbed joint)
- You can glue an edge joint with HH straight off the plane
- You cannot glue an edge joint with LH straight off the plane, the edge surface must be roughed up with some course grit paper.
I guess the last part is the most important bit of information about LH. The first test I did was a failure as it broke on the glue line without much effort. The reason being the surface was smooth off the plane. I knew this would happen, but I thought maybe a home batch version would react differently and it didn’t. I did write about this in Issue III.
The second test I roughed the edge with some 80 grit sandpaper, 120grit would work as well. Obviously it was a success.
As you can see there are notable differences between Liquid Hide and Hot Hide. It would be better to use Hot hide over Liquid hide, but it’s also comforting to know that if you need that extra open time LH will do the job equally well.
If you remember my previous post I was making my own batch of liquid hide glue.
The results have turned out better than expected. Tack time is about 4 mins and I really didn’t get much more from OBG. I ripped,jointed and edge glued the same beech and let it sit for an hour. An hour is never usually long enough time as no glue can cure within that short time span, but it shocked that I couldn’t break the join. What’s even more surprising that the glue dried clear! See for yourselves. The join is in the middle.
Then I edge glued pine and the squeeze out was a light transparent brown colour. When I wiped it off, there’s no dark colour on the glue joint. Again, see for yourselves.
Here’s what it looks like in the bottle.
As you can see it looks no different than any liquid hide on the market.
It’s ironic though that it dries clear,and I’m suspecting the urea must have had something to do with that. Tomorrow night I’ll see where the pine will break and if it’s successful as I think it should be,I’ll be making my own batch of LH from then on.
I wonder though how long the shelf life will be.
I use hide glue when making up the blanks for the moulding planes, but I don’t like how the colour of hide glue at the join shows that it’s laminated. So I made a trial run with fish glue as I know it will dry to a clear finish and is just as strong as hide glue.
Animal products is not a gap filler, but hide glue to a small degree will fill some small gaps. Fish glue on the other hand shows no mercy. If the join isn’t tight enough, it will not fill it and will remind you how much you suck at woodworking. This means your work has to be God like and how is that possible?
As you can see in this scrap of beech, I ripped it into four separate pieces, jointed and edge glued each one individually. You can clearly see that the glue did not fill the gap in the top right corner, but the left side was well done so it’s a seamless join.
I haven’t had the balls to try this when laminating the blanks, because I’m sure there would be gaps on such a large surface.
I think in making up the blanks if you don’t want to see a dark brown colour at the join, then white PVA glue would be a better option.
I came across a website several weeks ago on how to make liquid hide. I copied it down but didn’t note which website I took it from. So, whomever you are I thank you in advance.
What you need:
- Hide Granules
These three ingredients are mixed by measure of weight. Follow these steps to mix your own batch.
1oz (28grams) of 192 grams strength Hide granules
.2oz (5.6grams) of Urea
1.5oz (42 grams) of distilled water
Mix the Urea into granules and stir it.
Then pour the distilled water into the mix and give it a quick stir.
Cover it and let it sit overnight. The next day heat it up to 140°F (60°C) for 2 hours.
(I’m not sure why it’s required to use distilled water unless tap water in the U.S. is filthy)
Liquid Hide is now ready to be used. Pour it into a small plastic bottle and when you need it, just heat the bottle with water up to the same temperature written above.
All well said and done, but we’ll see how works out tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted.
Btw, the Issue III of The Lost Scrolls Of HANDWORK magazine is in its final stage. I’m hoping to publish within the next couple of weeks. Fingers crossed
I want to apologise to all my readers of HANDWORK for not releasing the third issue in a timely fashion. It’s very hard to do so because of my current job. It’s a juggling act and the balls are falling all over the place.
Writing this magazine is probably the best thing I have ever ventured into. I know firsthand the benefits in terms of knowledge I have personally gained, and the many benefits others have gained according to the emails of support I have received since releasing the first issue.
It’s not easy by any stretch of the imagination. Dedicating the time needed to build then write about the build is most difficult.
As we near Christmas things get busy at work and I may have to work 7 days a week for the next couple of months. It’s crazy I know and the money isn’t so incredible either. It sure is no way to live.
I’ve started this magazine with good intentions and I had no idea that its popularity would rise so quickly. May be because it’s free or may be this is what people really want. But it isn’t possible for me on my own to continue the way I am without ending up in a hospital bed due to exhaustion and being financially strained as well, even though, I’m working inhumane hours to do both and be expected to not walk around looking like a zombie or end up being a corpse.
I have given this much thought and I think I ought to take a leap of faith, go out on a limb and turn it into a business and work it full time. Ha! easier said then done due to lack of finance. Giving up my job till I can earn enough from the magazine if any for that matter to sustain my household is a big risk I’m not willing to take. Instead, I would like to take baby steps. With that I mean setting a price on the fourth issue. With the income earned from that I can expand and pay contributing authors for the fifth issue. The money earned from subsequent issues I can begin with some prize giveaways and I’m not talking about some cheap shabby cruddy cheap tool either. I’m not going to be stingy about any of this.
If you’re all willing to give this a shot, we will have a good hand tool only woodworking magazine. I cannot do this without your support. The price I’m contemplating to be around US$5.00. Please don’t gruel me out for charging in US dollars as Veritas is a Canadian company and they only charge online in US dollars as their dollar isn’t worth much just like the Aussie dollar. I think this price is fair and much less than current woodworking magazines on the market.
Let me know your thoughts it would be interesting to hear them.
P.S. All the articles besides the moulding plane build is finished. I have just begun writing the article because I have finished the build only last week. Yes I know its been slow but blame it on my job and also blame it on the high cost of shipping O1 tool steel. The shipping costs are twice and in some cases three times the price of the steel. I’ve also devoured just about every engineering place in my locality hoping to lower the costs a bit and they too made a hefty profit from me. I wore the cost. So what I’m saying is that I had to stash a little aside every week just to pay the high costs of shipping and there’s the conversion rate and credit card fees on top. Geez have I missed any other fees?
I got an email yesterday from someone saying I didn’t make those mistakes on purpose. Seriously, do you have nothing better to do with your life than call people liars? Just to prove mines bigger than yours I made some new dovetails. Well moron did I pass? Am I a craftsman now? Will you be sending me a merits badge? You should be happy I named the pictures after you, moron_1 and moron_2.
I know I should ignore people like that but today was a test of patience day and I ran on empty.