How to make tool handles

John Jacob Holtzapffel

I have several files that require some handles to be made because it’s a big no no to use a file without a handle. The design I want to use comes from Jean-Jacques Holtzapffel, who was an ornamental turner in London in 1792. He later anglicised his name to John Jacob Holtzapffel, I think in 1794. This design is better known as the Holtzapffel pattern. The pattern has a narrow slender neck towards the ferrule and a large bulb for a better grip. It’s a brilliant design and very comfortable to work with.

Holtzapffel pattern

He started making his own lathe and sold his first lathe in 1795 for a hefty price of 25 pounds, which was quite high at that time. He sold 1,600 lathes during his lifetime before he died in 1835. However, the name continued live on and Holtzapffel lathes continued in production until 1930.

Holtzapffel Rose Engine Lathe 1816

In this article, I intend to briefly explore how I made this handle. As I intend on making a few for myself, the thought of not sharing it with you would have been utterly selfish on my part. Should you wish to purchase one, then may I point you toward workshopheaven in England.

You need two materials a bit of hardwood and a ferrule.

ferrules

The ferrules prevent the handle from splitting when inserting the tang. However, if you do not bore a hole deep enough and large enough and you force the tang into the handles, by golly you will split the handle. They make ferrules of brass and can be expensive to buy individually, especially if you need 10 or more. Their price varies from $5.00 and more. An alternative would be to either purchase a brass tube from eBay or a copper pipe from any plumbing store. I bought several threaded brass nipples. This one nipple will give me two ferrules.

15mm Threaded Brass Nipple

First, I turned the cylinder that fit the inner diameter of the nipple. Then I put the nipple on the cylinder.

After doing this, I found another simple method by fixing the jaws firmly on the hex nut.  Which ever way you choose, make sure the nipple is centred and locked in.

Use the file to file the thread. I would recommend to turn the stock at the lowest speed. This way you will preserve much of your file. Start off with a bastard cut, then 2nd cut and finish with a smooth file. Hold the file horizontally at all times.

Please note that it’s a good practice to separate your files for metalwork and woodwork. In other words have a set for each craft. This is to stop any metal shavings from contaminating the wood when shaping. The metal filings deposited into the wood will damage your planes, spokeshaves, chisels, etc.

Next turn the handle.

To turn the correct diameter of the shaft that house the ferrule I used a wrench of the size which in my case was 15mm. Cut the end off and glue the brass ferrule onto the shaft using some fish glue. Shock, horror, surprise, I didn’t use epoxy! They used fish glue not hundreds, but thousands of years ago to glue metal to wood. But if you still wish to go down the modern path, then Loctite AA330 is the right glue for gluing any metal to wood.

Both handles are of the same species of wood which is Qld Walnut. The left has tung oil finish applied while the right shellac and wax. I was just experimenting now. Qld walnut is impossible to find nowadays, as they now preserve the tree.

This is a file I have that my late uncle made back in the day when files were made of real quality. Unfortunately for him, the factory where he produced the files also gave him cancer. You can get many of these files for less than $2.00 in flea markets. They are worth investing in. Good modern day files are Bahco. I said good, not great, but better than Nicholson. If you want to make your own high-quality files, then I recommend you watch this video.

Here is my file set for shaping wood. I still have two more handles to make and I can say the job’s a gooden. This set should last me my lifetime if I continue the hobbyist route.